This topic contains 48 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 
Gradiance 3 years, 1 month ago.
-
Posts
-
Names Holland I’m from Washington State been into wheeling since I was about 17. I own a Toyota based full tube chassis buggy I built last winter. Soon to be full size based. Tired of breaking all the Toyota parts constantly
Attachments:
Nice Rig Holland. 1ton is the way to go. The Toyota running gear is strong for a lighter Rig or a slow and steady wheeling style. I have a 1977 FJ40 that has stock 1.5″ axle shafts and a 9.75″ ring gear. So the Cruiser stuff is a lot stronger than mini truck.
Thank you. Yeah the mini truck stuff was fine in a Toyota but anymore the parts just can’t handle the abuse. I’ve got a 14 bolt ff rear and Dana 60 front. Just going old school with a sbc 350 and 400 transmission with a Dana 300 case
Attachments:
The d300 case is ok, but 205 is stronger. Other than that, sounds solid. Don’t get me wrong, the 300 is a good case, just for extra strength reasons I would go 205.
Yeah I thought about running a 205 and if I have too many problems with the 300 I will consider it. Kind of going this route due to gearing availability over here. I have a close friend selling the 300 with 4to1s in it and cable shifters. Already set up twin stick. So it kind of fits the bill perfectly for me at the moment. If I split it with ease I might even consider atlas or better
You won’t split it tooling around the yard, but I have a friend who has broken 2 d300 in half. Then he went Atlas. I personally want a HERO T-Case.
Yeah if I start running into issues like that I’ll just go Hero and be done with it. For the moment this will have to do. Came in a deal that I couldn’t pass up
I fully understand, and it may work out perfectly for you. I have tried to figure out how I might have to modify my chassis to fit a HERO. I’ll wait till the Atlas breaks first though.
Yeah as the old saying goes don’t fix what’s not broke. Gonna be stripping my chassis this week. I’ve collected enough parts to keep me busy for a few minutes. Gonna be looking into converting my brakes in the 60 to a different style of caliper and smaller rotor. Any suggestions of caliper brackets?(front axle)
Hmmm…not off hand but I know a guy who would know. He’s on here. I’ll get him to chime in.
Andy asked me to chime in here. I have a lot of experience here as i have done many 1 ton brake conversions. Are you wanting to go with 1/2 ton factory style rotors and calipers or something more expensive like aluminum hubs and wilwood ultralight rotors and calipers?
I’m looking to go to 1/2 factory style rotors and calipers sir
When do you need the brackets by? I am working on getting a supplier for a complete kit and should have something together soon. Check out http://www.BurkeyRacingShop.com
Well in the buy the end of August I’d say at the latest. Now I have a dodge Dana 60 and the way it looks is that the bracket will have to be bent backward in order to clear but I’m not sure if that changes with a different rotor or not. Any info helps. I wouldn’t mind making a purchase for something like this from you. Also I’m looking for an easy/clean to mount and strong brake master cylinders. Aftermarket or not. Any info helps thanks
I ran 1/2 ton single piston calipers and wilwood 7/8 master cylinders and my brakes worked decent and I diddnt have a booster. The front brackets work on dodge and chevy dana 60s, and the rears work for a 60 or 14 bolt. I need to verify the front caliper brackets will work on stock hubs as they are designed to work with aftermarket hubs. Ill know this weekend. Early next week ill have you a price worked up.
-
Posts
-
Names Holland I’m from Washington State been into wheeling since I was about 17. I own a Toyota based full tube chassis buggy I built last winter. Soon to be full size based. Tired of breaking all the Toyota parts constantly
Attachments:
Nice Rig Holland. 1ton is the way to go. The Toyota running gear is strong for a lighter Rig or a slow and steady wheeling style. I have a 1977 FJ40 that has stock 1.5″ axle shafts and a 9.75″ ring gear. So the Cruiser stuff is a lot stronger than mini truck.
The d300 case is ok, but 205 is stronger. Other than that, sounds solid. Don’t get me wrong, the 300 is a good case, just for extra strength reasons I would go 205.
Yeah I thought about running a 205 and if I have too many problems with the 300 I will consider it. Kind of going this route due to gearing availability over here. I have a close friend selling the 300 with 4to1s in it and cable shifters. Already set up twin stick. So it kind of fits the bill perfectly for me at the moment. If I split it with ease I might even consider atlas or better
You won’t split it tooling around the yard, but I have a friend who has broken 2 d300 in half. Then he went Atlas. I personally want a HERO T-Case.
Yeah if I start running into issues like that I’ll just go Hero and be done with it. For the moment this will have to do. Came in a deal that I couldn’t pass up
I fully understand, and it may work out perfectly for you. I have tried to figure out how I might have to modify my chassis to fit a HERO. I’ll wait till the Atlas breaks first though.
Yeah as the old saying goes don’t fix what’s not broke. Gonna be stripping my chassis this week. I’ve collected enough parts to keep me busy for a few minutes. Gonna be looking into converting my brakes in the 60 to a different style of caliper and smaller rotor. Any suggestions of caliper brackets?(front axle)
Hmmm…not off hand but I know a guy who would know. He’s on here. I’ll get him to chime in.
Andy asked me to chime in here. I have a lot of experience here as i have done many 1 ton brake conversions. Are you wanting to go with 1/2 ton factory style rotors and calipers or something more expensive like aluminum hubs and wilwood ultralight rotors and calipers?
I’m looking to go to 1/2 factory style rotors and calipers sir
When do you need the brackets by? I am working on getting a supplier for a complete kit and should have something together soon. Check out http://www.BurkeyRacingShop.com
Well in the buy the end of August I’d say at the latest. Now I have a dodge Dana 60 and the way it looks is that the bracket will have to be bent backward in order to clear but I’m not sure if that changes with a different rotor or not. Any info helps. I wouldn’t mind making a purchase for something like this from you. Also I’m looking for an easy/clean to mount and strong brake master cylinders. Aftermarket or not. Any info helps thanks
I ran 1/2 ton single piston calipers and wilwood 7/8 master cylinders and my brakes worked decent and I diddnt have a booster. The front brackets work on dodge and chevy dana 60s, and the rears work for a 60 or 14 bolt. I need to verify the front caliper brackets will work on stock hubs as they are designed to work with aftermarket hubs. Ill know this weekend. Early next week ill have you a price worked up.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
